We regularly visit new places in the name of ‘research’ in order to have first-hand knowledge for recommendations to guests. Other people might just call it lunch. Last week’s ‘research’ took us to the eastern edge of Languedoc on the Petite Camargue. After coffee and croissants with friends by the pretty port of Meze, we each went our separate ways – the others onto the Pont du Gard and we went to Aigues-Mortes. Meaning ‘dead water’ in Occitan it’s bound by intact rectangular ramparts rising from the surrounding marshlands. Built in the mid-13th century to be a principal Mediterranean port, it soon became swallowed up by the silt of the Rhône which pushed the sea further south. As a result of the silt, it is now renowned for its particular sea salt.
Where Carcassonne is fairytale, Aigues-Mortes is functional, but with an equally interesting history and charming streets which, while including the usual tourist shops, also has a thriving artisan and artists community. Lunch was in the main square, and, as is fitting in a town surrounded by coast and the wild bulls of the Petite Camargue, mostly featured Gardiane de Toro or seafood. Very good food, service and ambience on a hot, busy August day. We’ll be going back out of season - for more research.
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